Investigative Journalism
Sweatshops Versus Sexshops:
The Gritty, Unshaven Face of American Apparel
By Jennifer Miller
 If
you were to ask me what I remember most from my pre-adolescent years
(apart from an extravagant Lego set and some aquatic wildlife swimming
in a Price Club aquarium), it would be the weekly trips I took with
my mom to the local mom-and-pop bakery. Unfortunately, it seems
that now a certain fast-food Chinese chain has taken over and I
can’t help but think: Super, another fond memory that’s
been replaced by orange chicken and sweet-and-sour pork.
I’m not necessarily surprised, though, things like this happen
all the time. Few small businesses can ever really compete with
big corporations. But how about a big company with a small-business
work-ethic? Is it possible for this kind of anti-capitalist, pro-environmentalist
big business to exist in today’s markets? Well, one company
that has recently jumped to the forefront of business-bolshevism
is American Apparel, the Los Angeles-based clothing company famous
for its plain, fitted tees. By openly touting its “sweatshop
free” claim, the business has become popular with today’s
new generation of young adults, who may or may not share a rising
concern for labor issues.
But so much of American Apparel seems illusory. Despite the fact
most workers get paid an average of $10 an hour, some receive only
$7. There are no paid sick days and no paid vacations, and only
two months ago did the company begin to offer health insurance.
And to think – they just earned $150 million in sales. And
although American Apparel is a better business model than many other
companies, it all seems a bit unfair and exploitative to turn what
should be a noble and ethical cause into a marketing ploy. Yet somehow,
all of the economic and business-related questions that have been
swirling around American Apparel seem to pale in comparison to the
barrage of allegations that have been hurled at owner Dov Charney.
Charney, the yiddishe malchik-come-industry savant, started selling
shirts while he was growing up in Montreal, Canada. He continued
to provide fitted shirts throughout his college years at Tufts University.
At a time when Hanes Beefy-T’s weren’t cutting it, Charney
pioneered shirts to fit one’s individual physique. Today,
Charney has moved forward - not only selling shirts at AA’s
retail locations, but also selling bras, panties, shorts and pants.
The clothes are minimal, monochromatic and are always scantily plastered
on thin, young models.
Perhaps even more surprising is Charney’s statement in a
recent interview. His comment concerned the company’s slogan
as “passé” and this may suggest a different marketing
path. I’m thinking he’ll want to pursue further production
of raunchier ads: no more ‘hip’py chic, introducing
skin and visible cheek. The company has certainly had its way with
bawdy sex-induced ads. Of course, what better way to sell clothes
than through sex? And better yet, clothes that are already message-branded
with heavy-duty sex appeal: cool and sexy. Sexy cause it’s
cool and cool cause it’s sexy. American Apparel isn’t
notably celebrated for sales of (plain) clothing, but for company
ads. I present to you AA’s x-factor: porn. Yes, Mr. Charney,
you are a very smart man.
Before American Apparel stores started popping up around L.A.,
I recognized the brand because I many graphic tees and band shirts
that were printed in the “classic girl” style. But I
have become more aware of the company’s increasing presence
in the hipster sphere in part to the location of ads and their memorable
content. Though clever remarks of comfort are scrolled at the corners
of the photographs, I ultimately had to wonder: Where did the clothes
go? The tiny amount of actual fabric photographed in advertisements
alludes to amateur porn. It’s obviously not the clothes that
hold most viewers’ attentions, but the indiscreet and salacious
“real-life” shots of young women, who Charney claims
are also ‘real-life’ women – not models. Maybe
he forgot that most women can’t afford to fit into the squeamishly
small bottoms sold at shops. It can’t be denied that sex sells,
but Charney isn’t just running some clever marketing scheme,
he’s also promoting a specific lifestyle.
Heralded as a business messiah (by himself), Charney walks a fine
line between au courant activist and “that creepy guy,”
having been known to walk around in his underwear at his Los Angeles
factory. As the Wonka of clothes, he celebrates the body, even going
so far as to masturbate in front of a Jane Magazine reporter. The
New York Times has also recently reported that three cases of sexual
harassment are being brought against him. Oh, and have I mentioned
what he looks like? Think 70’s throwback, complete with cascading
muttonchops and a keen eye for the ladies. Charney likes to hire
his female employees in person, be it in the streets or clubs. After
all, recruitments are the main staple for the sex-conscious ads.
But who are these girls? Well, I wanted to find out, and what planned
to be an application process concluded in an exercise in discrimination.
In order to be considered for a position, three ‘fun’
photos are needed. (Note to self: red flag). Although other companies
have been publicly targeted for stereotyping, American Apparel is
really one to push the barrier. Photos are also taken of applicants
during the interview process - some pictures are even turned into
ads without the acknowledgment of the individuals. Looks like Charney
plays big daddy and big brother.
I have to confess, though: I do own some items from American Apparel.
But I’ve promised myself that I’m not going to buy into
the whole sex-fueled “save-the-planet” ruse. “American”
Apparel was created by a Canadian, it rarely puts a “real”
all-American girl in an ad and it employs Latino immigrants committed
to all the manual labor. At least nobody knows what brand my AA
hooded sweatshirt is.
For more information, go to these websites:
http://www.inthesetimes.com/site/main/article/2270/
http://www.nowtoronto.com/issues/2005-03-17/news_feature.php
http://www.newyorkmetro.com/nymetro/shopping/fashion/fall04/9634/
http://www.pbs.org/newshour/bb/business/july-dec02/garments_10-10.html
http://www.onestepstudios.com/silcoff/features/charney.html
|
